A SUBTERRANEAN BUCKLER
by: Melanie Dizon | posted: May 4, 2009
Mix one part Tony Curtis, two parts Steve McQueen, a dash of British schoolboy and a spank of punk rock—this is the recipe for Buckler by Andrew Buckler. Andrew hails from London’s Royal College of Art, where his formal training in patternmaking, draping, and design cultivated the seeds for a fashion career that would later transplant him to New York City. It was there that his eye sharpened, and where he elected to design the menswear collection for NY-based company Daryl K before starting his own foray into men’s fashion under the moniker “Buckler.”
Buckler was monumentally known for his rock-star fitted jean that even women clamored for, and at desperate times steal it off their boyfriends. Musicians such as Tommy Lee, Liam Gallagher, and the Editors are long time zealot fans of Buckler, having tested the denims on and off the stage. In 2003, the collection expanded with offerings of tailored suits, outerwear, knits and a special line of underwear tagged “sexy bastard,” a bit of cheeky British humor that’s become synonymous with Buckler. And so the story goes. His hands-on approach to design and his company’s vision are apparent in the language that resonates through each thread, standing the test of time.
MD: You’ve been “one to watch” in menswear fashion, can you tell us when you started Buckler and what is the concept behind the brand?
AB: Buckler was launched in 2001, now based in the Meatpacking district. The aesthetic concept is simply, English bloke meets New York. The result is a designed tailored look with details that distinguish it from others.
MD: How would you describe your style and who do you consider to be your iconic man?
AB: The line is a culmination of the roguish American icon with a Brit edge. Liam Gallagher meets Steve Buscemi creates the distinct characteristics of the Buckler man.
MD: You now have four stores, is that correct? Can you tell us about the architecture and mood for each store as well as their locations?
AB: We have four stores and counting. The original store is located at 13 Gansevoort Street in New York City and also houses the design team and showroom. The subterranean atmosphere lends itself to popularity by word of mouth. There are meat hooks hanging from the industrial pipes that run the length of the ceilings and pay tribute to the district’s heritage. Custom rails snake around the store creating a maze, forcing present company to walk the design and color stories. One-way looking glass encases the dressing rooms and stretches along the wall separating the retail store from the showroom, allowing the hidden narcissist in everyone to venture out into the open.
The second store is located at 93 Grand Street in New York’s SoHo; a bi-level sanctuary for the modern-day man. The vintage, hand-printed, black-on-black wallpaper adds unnecessary depth to the voluminous space. The architecture has a modern influence that continues in the Toronto store. Buckler’s Canadian store is located at 700 Queen Street West in Toronto. The area is quickly becoming a mecca for fashion and menswear. When first scouting new locations, the street was less occupied and was very reminiscent of the Meatpacking District’s ambience.
The fourth store is located at 35 Artillery Lane in Spitfields, London. The two-story, glass-paned building presides over the entire street corner. The design borrows its influence from an old English pub; in fact the corner sign came from one and was updated with the Buckler logo.
MD: Any plans for opening future stores in other countries/cities?
AB: Yes, there are plans for new stores. We are narrowing the search for the right locations in and outside the USA, none are confirmed yet. It’s great to be able to build your own environment.
MD: In addition to clothing, you also design shoes and other accessories; please tell us a little bit about them, Do you have plans on expanding to other categories or concepts?
AB: Buckler’s first endeavor into shoes began with the pointed-toed, color-blocked Winklepicker. Additional sharp looking dress shoes followed—Chelseapicker, Oxford, and the Winklebrogue. Since then, Buckler has designed other shoe genres including a Motorpicker boot and Flap Sneaker. The further Buckler delves into shoe design, the more diverse the styles will grow. The Fall 2009 collection includes a double wrap leather belt and also knitted head treatments, some combined with neckwear.
MD: When did you start producing fashion shows for Buckler? Is this something you will continue to do given its slot in NY fashion calendar or would you consider showing say in London or Paris?
AB: Buckler’s fashion show and presentation began in 2004. We will stay in New York but we have looked recently at opportunities in Milan for fashion week there.
MD: The global economical shift has affected many industries across the board. How has this affected your collection, designs, and positioning in the menswear market?
AB: On the whole, a positive effect…we have really tuned up the collection, maintained the items that do well, and condensed the size, making it really focused. It’s a time of survival in one sense, so when we come out the other end, we will be one of the few strong in the running.
MD: When was the “breakthrough” moment for Buckler, or for you personally as a designer?
AB: I’m not sure its happened yet…and I don’t know if I would see it if it did! You just keep trying the best you can all the time.
MD: If you had to change anything from your days as a seedling company to where Buckler is today, what would it be?
AB: I don’t think in the early days I appreciated enough what was going on around me. I just kept running with it. I think looking back, I might stop and chat a little more about what was going on.
MD: What gives you fulfillment at the end of each season’s collection?
AB: The customer who comes in and loves and appreciates the item he bought.
