Chains of Change... an evolution of designer
by: Melanie Dizon | posted: Jun 1, 2009
Six years ago, in a basement studio tucked away on Bleecker St. just west of the Bowery, the whisper of cutting shears and the smell of leather allured you to the inner sanctum of accessory designer Bliss Lau. Today, her studio resides on 5th Avenue and she remains devoted as ever to the art of adornment and ingenuity.
“It’s a basic life thing that people tend to forget about sometimes,” Bliss says about keeping your eyes open to the world, aware of what’s happening around you, and remembering your own personal balance outside of work. Having come from a lineage of teachers, her approach to design and being an entrepreneur inspired her to a teach a course at Parsons in New York, her alma mater. “Teaching is an important part of my life, it has taught me a tremendous amount about people and communication.”
Since the launch of her body-jewelry line, Bliss has hit a veritable trend in the market. Her recent works have been featured on the covers of Rolling Stone (shot by Terry Richardson), Zinc Magazine (US), Italian Vogue (shot by Steven Meisel), and SOMA Magazine.
Dizon: As an artist and designer, I often find a parallel in the modes of expression, in that they both convey an artist’s language. Moreover, with accessories and clothing, there’s a definite association and consideration of space and experience. What led you to start your career in accessory design as opposed to ready-to-wear?
Bliss: After graduating from Parsons with an Apparel degree, I found the body to be a difficult medium. In 2003, I began my career with handbags. This allowed me to play with shape and space with more freedom than apparel. Two years later, I veered towards the body again with the addition of my belt collection. Then going full circle in 2007, I applied some leather techniques to make a line of chain jewelry that draped onto the body. My “body-jewelry” collection entered an undefined creative space unlike the confines of handbags, which required a functional utilitarian product.
In terms of a mode of expression, I seek the vision to change as I grow and learn in the city. I find that as an artist I’m constantly absorbing the world and flexing with it. As a businesswoman I seek to find a profitable product that I enjoy designing. I suppose this is the challenge of a designer; balancing the artist and entrepreneur within. Somehow the constant struggle is the driving force behind new ideas and progression.
Dizon: I’m noticing a return of “androgyny” in fashion, especially after having seen the collection previews for Fall 2009. Your chain jewelry seems to have a similar edge to this; hard meets soft, tough yet graceful, boy-meets-girl.
Bliss: Yes it’s in full swing! What was intended to be a women’s collection has become a unisex one. The current fashion male is gender neutral in many ways and the strength of the heavy chains [on my jewelry] is empowering on both men and women. Also because the collection is sold like clothing in sizes small, medium, and large, it easily fits on men. Moving forward for Spring 2010, I intend to design some male-focused pieces that will also be offered as unisex.
Dizon: New York City is notorious for change, part of its many charms. What is the evolution with areas like the Lower East Side, Bowery, and Nolita and how does this influence your business?
Bliss: I recently watched the film Valentino: The Last Emperor and was very taken aback by the feeling of the end of an era. What once was the couture world of Valentino living a lavish life without qualms towards the bottom line are now over. I only hope that as a designer in NY, I will be part of the vanguard during this transition. The days of H&M and Topshop are here now in the city and independent designers have been challenged to be highly creative and faster paced in order to stay ahead of the knockoff machines.
Regionally the city has changed as well, Nolita used to be a specialty boutique Mecca but now only a few fantastic stores have survived. I sell to Court and Nikki Laura, both of which have cornered their own niche within the neighborhood.
The Bowery is a special place melding the dirt and grime while gripping the underbelly of fashion in New York. Many of the fashion week parties last season were here and it is very telling that stores like Eva, that once graced the streets of Nolita, has now moved to the Bowery. I love the mixture of high fashion with NYU students and the methadone clinics that the Bowery has; nothing else is really like that anymore.
I think the LES is changing in many ways it has become more commercial but it still has a lovely charm. I sell to Suite Orchard, a boutique that captures both the commercial and creative sides of the neighborhood. Then south of Delancey Street, a slew of new stores and great restaurants have opened, so the area has definitely expanded from what used to be the bargain district.
Dizon: The fashion industry typically works seasons ahead. Though I’m sure this has changed given the current constraints. What visions do you have for the future of Bliss Lau?
Bliss: The future at this time is not easily foreshadowed, I think that any independent designer should eventually go into some form of licensing deal or design collaboration. It is hard to say what opportunities will arise for my company and what types of other products I will be able to create. In a perfect world I would love to design anything from shoes to furniture and art! Currently I make everything myself in my design studio. Domestic production is important to me and I would like it to stay that way (within reason of course!). My design process requires that I spend hours creating physical samples. I believe that in order to create beautiful things we must think with our hands!
